I have a real soft spot for cameos. There's something wonderful about these tiny intricate portraits, each with a face and personality of its own. And I especially love finding old shell cameos and giving them an entirely new life.
Most of the cameos I use are natural carved shell pieces I've collected from vintage jewelry. The original setting might be outdated, but the carving can still be absolutely beautiful. Sometimes it just needs someone to see it differently.
What is a shell cameo?
A cameo is a miniature relief carving, with the design raised above the background. Cameos can be made of shell, stone, glass, and other materials, but I love natural carved shell. Carvers use the contrasting layers of marine shells to reveal a light portrait against a darker background. They're tiny works of sculpture.
How can you tell if a cameo carver was good?
Years ago, I visited a jeweler who rescued old cameos from jewelry brought in for gold buying. He had a wonderfully theatrical way of telling stories. He explained that you could judge the skill of a cameo carver by how pretty the girl was.
It made me laugh, but I understood what he meant. Look at the proportions of the face, the delicate nose and lips, the hair, the clothing. Of course, beauty is subjective, and an unusual face doesn't mean poor craftsmanship. But you really can see differences in an artist's skill when you look closely.
Why do so many cameos face right?
Right-facing profiles are common in traditional shell cameo jewelry, though left-facing portraits exist, too. I particularly love finding two that face opposite directions for earrings. The trouble is finding two vintage carvings that complement each other in size, color, style, and direction. It's surprisingly difficult. When I find a pair, it's a little treasure.
The master cameo carvers I saw in Tucson
One year at the Tucson gem shows, I saw work by master cameo carvers that completely blew me away. There were entire conch shells carved with elaborate scenes, almost like architectural friezes. Figures and details wrapped around the shells. The artists even had sketches showing how they planned their designs. Seeing the drawings beside the finished carvings really drove home how much artistry and patience goes into this work.
Are shell cameos gemstones?
Shell isn't a mineral gemstone like sapphire. It's an organic material made by mollusks, largely of calcium carbonate and an organic matrix. But shell has been prized as a gem material and carving medium for centuries.
A little cameo history
Cameo carving dates back to ancient Greek and Roman artisans. Shell cameos became especially popular in Europe during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, with Italian carving centers like Torre del Greco renowned for the craft. Victorian jewelry made portrait cameos enormously fashionable. Beautiful shell cameos were also made throughout the twentieth century, and the tradition continues today.
Are all cameos hand-carved?
No. Some are carved individually from natural shell or stone; others are molded from glass or resin. Even among genuine shell cameos, craftsmanship and production methods vary. I seek out natural carved shell pieces with individuality and beautiful detail.
Giving vintage cameos a new life
Most of my cameos have already lived a life as jewelry. They may once have belonged to a brooch or pendant made decades ago. I love pairing that old-world portrait with a contemporary handmade setting. The cameo brings its history, I bring a new design, and together they become something that didn't exist before.
How to care for shell cameos
Natural shell is relatively soft and sensitive to acids and abrasion. Avoid perfume, hairspray, harsh cleaners, prolonged soaking, and excessive heat. Never use ultrasonic or steam cleaning. Gently wipe with a soft cloth and store separately from harder jewelry.
Why I love cameos
Every face is different. Every carving has character. With vintage pieces, there's the extra mystery of wondering who wore them before. They're tiny works of art with histories of their own. I just get to help write the next chapter.
