Chain Length Mistakes That Scream "Costume Jewelry"
How to choose necklace lengths that look intentional and expensive
I've been hand-forging jewelry for over two decades, and I can spot costume jewelry from across the room. It's rarely about the materials – sometimes it's a beautiful piece with quality stones and solid metal. The dead giveaway? The chain length is completely wrong for the wearer.
Nothing ruins the impact of a gorgeous pendant like a chain that sits awkwardly on your neckline or disappears under your collar. Here are the most common chain length mistakes I see, and how to avoid them so your jewelry looks intentional, expensive, and perfectly suited to you.
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Mistake #1: The "Almost Right" Length
This is the most heartbreaking mistake because it's so close to perfect. Your necklace sits just a quarter-inch too high or too low, creating that "something's off" feeling that screams costume jewelry – even when it's a $300 handmade piece.
The fix: Don't settle for "close enough." Most quality jewelers can add chain extenders to get the length exactly right. I offer this service for my customers – just mention it in the notes at checkout. For silver pieces, I usually don't charge extra because getting the length perfect is that important to how the piece looks and feels.
The sweet spot: I recommend staying between 17-19 inches for most necklaces, with 18 inches as the goldilocks length for most body types. This length sits beautifully just below the collarbone without interfering with necklines.
Mistake #2: Ignoring Your Pendant's Length
Here's what most people don't consider: wherever your chain ends, add the length of your pendant. A 2-inch pendant on an 18-inch chain creates a 20-inch total drop. Plus, the weight of the pendant pulls the chain down further, so it won't sit like an empty chain would.
The fix: Always account for pendant length when choosing your chain. That beautiful statement pendant might need a 16-inch chain to sit properly, not the 18-inch you're assuming.
Mistake #3: Statement Pendants Touching Clothing
Large, beautiful pendants deserve to be seen – not hidden under your neckline or competing with your clothing. When a statement piece sits right at your neckline, it looks costume-y because it appears to be part of your outfit rather than an intentional jewelry choice.
The solution: Statement pendants should sit on skin, not fabric. This usually means choosing a length that keeps the pendant above your neckline, allowing it to be the star it was designed to be.
Mistake #4: One Chain Length for Everything
Buying every necklace at 18 inches because "that's what looks good on me" ignores the reality that different pendants and different outfits require different approaches. A delicate chain with a small charm has completely different requirements than a chunky chain with a large stone.
The solution: Consider each piece individually. That dainty everyday necklace might be perfect at 16 inches, while your statement pendant needs 20 inches to sit properly with your wardrobe.
Mistake #5: Not Considering Your Lifestyle
A necklace that looks beautiful when you're standing straight in front of a mirror might disappear into your collar when you're sitting at your desk all day, or swing annoyingly when you're chasing kids around.
The solution: Think about how you'll actually wear the piece. If you spend most of your day in blazers, consider how the chain length works with that silhouette. If you're active, make sure the length won't interfere with movement.
The Professional Difference
As someone who hand-forges each piece, I always photograph my necklaces at their actual length so you can see exactly how they'll sit. But here's what photos can't show: how the weight of the pendant affects the drape, or how your specific body type influences the way a chain falls.
This is why I'm always happy to customize chain lengths. When you find a piece you love, don't compromise on the length just because that's what's in stock. Getting the proportions right is what separates jewelry that looks intentional and expensive from pieces that look like an afterthought.
My Standard and Why It Works
I typically stock my necklaces at 18 inches because this length works beautifully for most people and most pendants. It sits just below the collarbone – visible above most necklines but not competing with them. For statement pendants, this length usually allows the piece to rest on skin rather than fabric.
But "usually" isn't "always," and that's where customization comes in.
Making It Perfect for You
Getting chain length right isn't about following rules – it's about understanding proportions and making intentional choices. A necklace that sits exactly where it should look expensive, even if it cost $50. A necklace that's fighting with your neckline looks cheap, even if it cost $500.
When you're shopping for necklaces – whether from me or anyone else – don't be afraid to ask about length adjustments. Any quality jeweler should be able to accommodate this, and most (myself included) understand that getting the length right is crucial to how much you'll actually wear and love the piece.
Your jewelry should enhance your style, not compete with it. The right chain length makes that possible.
Looking for a necklace that's perfectly proportioned for you? Browse my collection of handmade necklaces, and remember to mention your preferred length in the notes at checkout. I'm always happy to customize the chain length to ensure your new piece sits exactly where it should.
